Well I lost the best of five, five nil. Gone are the balmy days of August and early September. But I can read and understand the word Exit and make a b line for it. It’s time to bid farewell to Busan and Korea. Perhaps it’s because the air crew for a French airline stay at the hotel, I don’t know, but we have a great breakfast, including bran flakes ( oh to have some texture in food) good tea and coffee too. The evening is a perfect full moon autumn night so Chewy, James and I walk back with the dog to the apartment. It’s Amanda and Paul and their friends from Coventry. The views over the hills as the sun sets are glorious. Some volunteers have megaphones and are never off the damn things. An orange bus pulls in. Clean we made our way towards a suggested destination. It’s part of a minor complex of outhouses to a building which I have to assume is looking after them. Not the van we would have ideally chosen but as we came late to the party we had to have what was available. Chewy comes down the stairs and we start to take the bikes up the stairs. . She is livid. It’s finally going to happen, hopefully? Obviously we have the wrong season for this as it’s all rice now. Sat on the bench is an elderly man who has been enjoying his evening meal. He gets his son to recite his numbers from 1 to ten and the alphabet in English. The car park is a lot busier now than it was when we departed and whilst we could have stayed we decide to drive the hour or so to the next Mitchie helping us with the mileage the next day too. Like the workers outside the motel there is an understanding from a simple gesture the world over. My bladder is incontinent. The certificates and medals are ours. Where there is some inside, it’s just the mascots and the rubbish end of the collection. But now is the time to really clean the wounds. Refreshed we walk into town making the most of the borrowed hotel umbrella against the drizzle falling from the dusk sky. We try again and when the mapping directs us out of the forest along a narrow single lane track, we decide to call it a night, park in the adjacent lay-by cook dinner and kip there for the night. The path is just for cyclists too and we wizz along. You may choose a white mug with black interior and handle, or a white mug. No longer adventurers just passengers on a means to an end. As I have a face perfect for radio I have to assume it’s Chewys that’s the draw. Laughing like a lunatic after ten minutes I’d had enough, Alton Towers has nothing like this! I’m informed that this is not going to happen in her lifetime. We never see the sea, in fact the closest we come to it is at the mitchi’ where there is an aquarium! Ireland aren’t all that convincing, but a hell of a lot more convincing than the dark auburn haired person in white trousers and cream lacy top who comes up to the bar and buys a beer. A group of five couple make their way into the park, all have noses and no penis is on show so who knows what’s going on? Fifteen minutes is certainly long enough for me. They are hilarious, as with each part of our story being revealed, we are from Wales, here to see the rugby, we arrived a few days ago, no we didn’t fly here we cycled, etc etc one of the ladies expression of incredulity grows bigger with each revelation, her eyes popping open and her mouth bigger o’s! In front of these pools in the centre of the room is a large pool filled from the mouth of a stone frog as are the three pools on the left immediately you enter. It is after all where the locals swim according to the trail leaflet. A group of workmen are passing just as the inflation falters. As we near base there’s a lot of chatter in the distance under a pagoda. Too knackered and not really in a position to focus on it at this point we just manhandle the two bikes up the stairs and deposit them in the hallway where we have been asked to leave them. Saturday one thirteen. I’m right and after some Teeth sucking ( and a phone call to Chaineys top DJ Matt to confirm the correct pads) he confirms he can and will do it. So a stand up wash in the shower waving hello to any passing mermaid through the panoramic windows before I entered the enveloping warmth of the huge bath. Only 5 k away so it should be a steady ride. Both lads are great fun and more-so after a few beers. After finding the phone box we needed to find a toilet for Chewy. Something Chewy has said has been eating away at me for a while. We have decanted our essentials into the shopping bag we’ve had since Romania. However their logistic train ran out of steam and the UN troops aka the Americans ( I know many others such as the Argyle highlanders took part in the war) pushed back. They have a tv but not the pay to view channel. You may recall we drove to a spot we had been to before but failed to make it and found ourselves in the morning parked around the corner from where we had been searching for. We do meet a lovely couple from North Wales who have been cycling for free on electric bikes and supply the details for us. He is a maths teacher in town for his brothers wedding reception. We return to the apartment to pick up Sharon before we go out for dinner to a bar for chicken and salad. After the pizza and beer it’s time to try and sleep. At the top is a lighthouse and a small park affording great views over the town despite a huge hotel called the Seasun in the way. Cursing Chewy for wanting threatening to use the Hitachi wand on me, I make it to the bed. It’s a struggle to be fair as Chewy can’t help as there’s nowhere to lean her bike up against, and the drivers no help either. Hopeless. The walk back to the subway is full of swaggering English fans, a lot wish us well. We disembarked at Tahara, we could well have been on a deserted island rather than a peninsular. At 5 am someone puts a note on the van windscreen in Japanese informing us that we’ve parked in a Sports club car park which is only open at weekends. Although they have a burner in their van they’ve never used it as they have no utensils whatsoever nor any chairs! So why is my front wheel off in the air once more? There’s an onsen six minutes away with great reviews so we tell the lads what we are doing and they follow us out of the baseball park and the hundreds of players and supporters who are there. Up the elevator to our berth. The round bed was not a comfy bed. The man holding the sign signifying the Back of the Queue, moves slowly further away from the facilities as the. What follows is the worst part of the entire trip for me. Final goodbyes made to our smashing new friends, we start the drive in the rain. We drop down onto the flood plain along a road so steep we are fearful it’ll destroy our brakes and so we walk along the concrete slabs to the bottom. Chewy takes hers first, but as there two lifts I’m not far behind her. Over lunch we realise that the Manic Street Preachers are playing tonight not tomorrow, so we head off to the venue in the Toyosu district. Are they giving away gold upstairs, land or peasants to work the land for free for a millennia ? And finally we are into a large park where at the end of a red brick trail is our certification centre. From three am a strap from the bike rack was constantly slapped against the side of the van, just to add a little percussion to the symphony. Still, all our wet clothes were dry in the morning. We return to the van as quickly as possible and get the sd card out and remove the wet battery. I wait for Chewy. 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